Cook Islands

Gimme some advice!
Do you know of any people / places / hotels / restaurants / bars / guides / resources in this country that you think would be unmissable?
I desperately need your advice, tips and recommendations. What's more, I need it written down.
Stick your advice in the comments - pleasepleaseplease.

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I'll be in Rarotonga, in the Cook Islands in August 2005:

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Ger den Reier says: We visted Atiu and Aitutaki island. If you like something special and rather rough go for Atiu. Beaches and lagunes: go for Aitutaki. Accomodation is rather expensive.
In Aitutaki we stayed at Rino's, on Atiu there only 2 or 3 places to stay. I advise you Atiu Motel, wonderful houses in a beautiful garden!

H says:
In Raratonga you have to do your Cook Island Driving licence it is dead funny. Then you can scooter around the whole island there is a place out of town left after the airport which does lovely nachos it is near or just after a posh hotel. I then dived on the Beqa lagoon which was great but very quiet.

Michelle says:
When in the Islands, especially Rarotonga, my advice is to attend church on Sunday. Don't worry if you're not Christian, it's good for a couple of reasons - firstly, you will get to hear the amazing music, hymns sung in the Islands is the most wonderful sound. Secondly, you will be moved - by their faith and their community..you'll probably be invited to a meal after Church and Thirdly, the locals will recognise you, and be even nicer to you than they were before. You will gain very many brownie points AND have a great time.