India

Gimme some advice!
Do you know of any people / places / hotels / restaurants / bars / guides / resources in this country that you think would be unmissable?
I desperately need your advice, tips and recommendations. What's more, I need it written down.
Stick your advice in the comments

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I'll be travelling overland from Nepal to Mumbai, in India in January 2006:

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Kay gave me a travel guide, and suggests visiting these places:

1. Sera Joe outside Mysore - the biggest Tibetan settlement outside of north India (and demanded I push a prayer wheel in her honour there)
2. Madikeri Area, Karnataka
3. Sravanabelgola - the largest Jainist erection in India
4. Hampi - where I should go to the Mango Tree eating place
5. Finally, Ellora and Ajonta, north of Mumbai

J-- recommends:

1. "Unmissable: the Golden Temple at Amritsar;
2. Varanasi/Benares;
3. Keralan backwaters;
4. hot dusty bus journeys;
5. Calcutta/Kolkota;
6. taking an auto rickshaw across town during rush hour;
7. Rajasthani palaces;
8. the centre of a city coming to a standstill during a festival;
9. painted Hindu temples;
10. Kashmiri lakes (except I'm not sure Kashmir is that safe at present);
11. the smells - fragrant and not so fragrant;
12. the noise."

Andre says: tip for india ... don't get stressed ... nothing happens on time ... everyone wants to rip you off ... but after about 4 days .... you'll just love the goddamn place