Nepal

Gimme some advice!
Do you know of any people / places / hotels / restaurants / bars / guides / resources in this country that you think would be unmissable? What's more, I need it written down.
Stick your advice in the comments - pleasepleaseplease.

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I'll be in Kathmandu, in Nepal in December 2005:

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PPQ recommends Boudnath.
She also says:
1. If you're in Thamel (which is basically like a Nepali Camden - haven for tourists and brimful of cheap bargains and bars) do pop into the Maya Cocktail Bar and say Hi to the guys there [Edit: hi from who? They know your pseudonym? :)].
Also if you're missing European food, Roadhouse and Fire and Ice do decent pizza.
2. Make sure you try Momo - a Tibetan/Nepali steamed dumpling served with broth traditionally made with pork and onion and garlic, but these days you get veggie ones and all sorts. Deeeeelicious. [Edit: Agreed - I live on Momo whenever I can, here in Catford!]
3. Patan which is an ancient town just outside of Kathmandu is full of typical old stylee Nepali archihtecture and has a great museum. You'll see that evidence of the the fact that pagodas were actually first built by a Nepali guy.
4. Light a few candles at Boudnath and have ago on the prayer wheels. An important Buddhist stupa where you may catch monks singing, or painting their beautiful thangka painting and as I mentioned it's one my most favourite places in the world.
5. And as my Dad's side are from Pokhara I would definitely recommend a few days stay by the lake side, and even a few treks if you can make it. Waking up in the morning and having a coffee on one of the rooftop cafes and writing your postcards while the Annapurnas loom ahead of you is just an amazing experience.
6. AND, if you get the time and the climate is good (both environmental and political) then a few days stay at one of the safari parks in Chitwan is well worth it. Dawn bird watching walks, canoe rides, elephant safaris to seek out tigers and rhinos and other wildlife is ace!

F-- recommends:

1. The New Orleans bar / restaurant in Kathmandu
2. The Thamel area for when you're culture shocked out and just want epats and nice cake
3. The Kathmandu Guest House - not the cheapest but central and really nice private gardens [Edit: exactly where I'll start my stay off...]
4. The best trekking guide in Nepal is Dilip! He has LOTS of experience doing all the main walks and some more unusual ones. I still get regular emails and it would be really nice to know that he had a job from these. Give him an email 6 weeks before you plan to arrive so that he can be sure to be available for you or can find you a substitute.
5. I did also investigate when I was in Pokhara (another Nepali town) a guiding outfit ran by women. You should always go and have a chat and a cup of tea with whoever you are going to hire and go on gut instinct and references.
   The women's company produced as my potential guide a girl of around 12 who looked rather frail (not a fault in itself but you have to think about who will support you if you feel a bit duff) and who had never done the walk proposed (a considerable 16 day hike to some altitude) - i felt like i would most probably have to carry her over the high pass myself and did wonder whether we would find the route at all). Also her English was not great.
6. if you hire a porter a) don't over burden that person - it is OK to expect them to carry your big pack but not two people's. Lots of porters are horribly overburdened but feel they can't afford to turn down the work,
   especially with tourism so low - they end up very resentful of their employers and the whole relationship s far less pleasant b) check out before you go, and ask to see before you set out on the bus for the start of the walk, their boots and their warm clothing. Don't be fobbed off. If your porter gets frostbite it is your responsibility. c) "Leenus" more ee than ie is the Nepali word for "pick up" as in "pick up your cards sucker, you lose!"
7. There are porters association offices in Kathmandu and Himalayan Mountaineering Association (if not exactly called this, then something like it!) offices - both are excellent places for looking at notice boards and finding someone else to hike with and to get information about AMS (altitude sickness).
8. AMS - follow the guidelines and you will be fine. Take any opportunity to"climb high and sleep low" which will help your walk the next day hugely - don't gain more than 500m in one day - i.e. you may start at 3000, climb to 4000 and come back to 3500. This means that the next day when you climb to 4000m you have already been there and are acclimatised to that high already making the gain far easier.
9. Drink loads and loads of water. If you plan on a long walk like the Annapurna Circuit then buy some Diamox and take it over 4500m, it is gods gift, the drug of choice!! (all will be explained by the nice doctors in the Mountaineering Association).

Alan says:
1. Kathmandu, my second home. Stay somewhere in the Thamel district (you probably will anyway). Be careful not to let any untreated water in your mouth or you'll have the runs for a week (some people even put gaffer tape over their mouth while taking a shower!) If you eat in a local restaurant, go somewhere lots of locals go, and ask them if they wash the food with bromide water before you touch anything!
2. Places to visit - the Monkey Temple, unmissable, outside the city on a hill, the temple itself is fascinating but even better is the view over the city. And Durbar Square. Also, at the internal airport you can get a flight around Mount Everest, which needs to be done really doesn't it?
3. Eat or have a drink or two at the Rum Doodle, and wander around reading the walls, where they have big boards under glass autographed by people who have summitted Everest (including Hillary and Tenzing, Messner, Athans, all the greats really). Other good western places to eat (safe food) are Kilroy's and K-Too. There's an Irish bar but it's usually full of Israeli's rather than Irish for some reason and it's a bit of a dive. If you want music and dancing I'd recommend the Funky Buddha instead.
4. Always barter in the shops, it's expected. If you think the price is too high, just walk out, if they are prepared to go down in price they will chase you! And when you see hawkers on the street, don't make eye-contact otherwise they will follow you around for hours. They have nothing better to do and they know that if they bug you enough, you'll buy whatever they're selling just to get rid of them!

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